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April to
June 1999 (27/38 days)
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As expected, there are thousands of mosque's all over Iran. Non-believers like myself are allowed to enter, even on Fridays. Iranian mosque's are striking due to their intricate Persian tile designs. Yadz, Iran (4/00). |
Esfahan, Persia's old capital, is by far the most beautiful city in Iran. Contrary to the standard western perceptions of Islamic Middle East countries, Iran is a modern, developed and amazingly clean country. Its people are well-educated, sharply dressed and thoroughly civilised. Its too bad that they have closed themselves to the world and have such a screwed-up ruling regime. Esfahan, Iran (4/00). |
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Every town in Iran has a bazaar (indoor market). Its a massive labyrinth of hallways, shops and people living their daily lives. You can buy anything there and its a great place to meet the locals and observe their lives. Iran (4/00). |
Once you get away from the large cities, people are much more open, friendly and approachable. They rarely see a foreigner so they are curious to meet you and happy to pose for pictures. Masuleh, Iran (4/00). |
Most females in Iran don't like to be photographed. I was lucky to get this lovely portrait of a school girl in uniform only because her father was by her side and I asked him permission. Esfahan (4/00). |
Men, on the other hand, love to have their picture taken. Masuleh, Iran (4/00). |
In the rural areas, the Hejab, Iran's strict code of dress for females, is often not followed. |
Esfahan's massive central square used to be the the King's polo field. Iranian towns all have lovely large gardens and parks for families to gather and stroll about. On the other hand, bars, discos, most cinema and theatre, most sports etc. etc. are all deemed un-Islamic so are banned. Esfahan, Iran (4/00) |
If you like to buy ornaments for the house, dust gatherers for the window sill, art, hand-made crafts, trinklets etc., you would go shopping crazy in Iran. I had to think twice before buying anything since I would mean carrying it in my pack at least until the next parcel mailing (possibly a couple of months!). Bazaar in Esfahan, Iran (4/00) |
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Persian archictecture, Esfahan, Iran (4/00). |
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| The western press (ie. the American press) paints Iran as being a terrible country, but Iran has some pretty good reasons for not liking America. Their problems date back to the time of the Shah (70's) but more recent events have not helped, such as a US warship in Iranian waters shooting down an Iranian airliner killing 290 people in 1988. This appalling act was hardly mentioned or acknowledged yet the 1989 Pan Am 103 tragedy in Lockerbie is still in the news today. Tehran, Iran (4/00). |
A photo I am not supposed to take but couldn't help it. In the cities, most people are in black but in the countryside they wear their traditional dress. Now that I think about it, people back home wear really dull and plain colors ! Abyaneh, Iran (4/00) |
There is no public transport in the hill country so I hitch-hiked to get around. When I tell people that I spent a month in Iran, they ask me if I speak Persian.....of course I don't. You will be amazed what you can do with hand gestures, nods and sign language. Alborz Mountains in Northern Iran (4/00). |
Mother and daughter pose happily for me. If you dare venture off the tourist trail to remote areas, you will be rewarded. When you wander into any village, you'll be the main event. Sometimes I would have a dozen people following me about trying to talk to me and invite me into their house for tea and cake. Village of Sareiyn, Northern Iran (4/00) |
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| Iran is the most fascinating, unique and unusual country I have ever visited. A beautiful and interesting place with zero tourists is a rare and precious combination these days. It's one of the few remaining places left which has not been influenced by western culture, has no Coca-Cola and if you go there now, you will it all to yourself. The one-month I spent in Iran surely ranks as one of my best travel adventures so far. Persepolis, a 2000 year old ruin near Shiraz, Iran (4/00). |
Sebastian (Dutch) and I sip tea and enjoy the beautiful views of the Black Sea. Although I loved my time in Asia, I was happy to get to Turkey in one piece and in good health. It was my first time back in a developed country in over 11 months. Trabzon, Eastern Turkey (5/00). |
Back home, kids are somewhat sheltered. They are always playing behind their own garden fence or inside their homes. In almost all other parts of the world, kids are happily running all over the place. Sister and brother, Safran Bolu, Turkey (5/00). |
Trabzon, Eastern Turkey (5/00). |
Cool tea-pot, eh ? Too bad I couldn't fit it into my backpack. Trabzon (5/00). |
Beautiful century old Ottoman style houses. Safran Bolu, Turkey (5/00). |
Sunset from the Galata Bridge, Istanbul (5/00). |
Food is a big part of my travelling. I like to eat and I'm naturally thin so I can get away with being a pig. Its such a joy to taste new and different foods from all over the world. Istanbul, Turkey (5/00). |
Istanbul is by far my favourite big city. Its exciting, vibrant, has lots of cultural sites and sits on a beautiful natural setting by the water. I stayed here for 10 days, the longest stay anywhere on my trip. For me, Turkey was the most fun country of all. It did not have the adventure and chaos of Asia but it was hassle-free, cheap, had a good party atmosphere and had more than enough star sights. Roman Aquaduct in the heart of Istanbul, Turkey (5/00). |
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The Ottoman Empire ruled Europe from Istanbul for centuries. There are many beautiful monuments still remaining. Istanbul (5/00). |
A man walking around a crowded market with a huge tea-pot is not a strange sight in Turkey (5/00). |
Football mad Turkey goes absolutely nuts when the local team Galatasaray wins the UEFA Cup. I had gotten news that the team had made the final so it was no accident that I was in Istanbul for the big event. Victory parade with 80,000 screaming jubilant fans, Taksim Square, Istanbul (5/00). |
Cappadocia, a truly weird and wonderful place. All those rectangular things are windows and doors of homes which have been carved into the soft rock. Believe it or not, many of these "homes" are still inhabited. Village of Uchisar in Cappadocia, Turkey (5/00). |
4 day yacht cruise from Olimpos to Fethiye in Turkey's southern coast. Every few hours we would pull into a nice secluded bay for a swim and walkabout. There is no better way to explore the coast and get lots of R&R. Mediteranean Sea, Turkey (5/00). |
 Cruising the Mediteranean for $50 per day (all inclusive) on a beautiful traditional Turkish yacht, the Gulet. You don't have to be rich to live the sweet life. You just have to be smart and know where to look. Somewhere off the south coast of Turkey (5/00). |
Email Reports
| Subject: Tales from Iran. | Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2000 |
3 most common posters/images on Iranian shop-windows : Ayatollah Khomeni (1979 revolution psycho), Ayatollah Ali Khamenei (cleric and current leader) and ......David Beckham !!!! It would be very very dangerous to claim Canadian nationality here since EVERY Iranian dreams to go to canada. At least 3 different locals have said "I dream to go to Canada" just out of the blue in conversation. Somehow, many here especially the modern educated ones are ALL trying to immigrate out. Some hotel mgrs found out I am Canadian since I have to show passport for check-in and they grilled me for hours about life in Canada, how to get in, can I sponsor them, can I give them a job, can I be their brother .....etc Observation of their society : they are the most suppressed, isolated and oppressed society I've seen. Pakistani's were fanatical and a bit radical. Here, they are well educated, sophisticated, cultured but suppressed like hell. They are just waiting to burst through. I swear, there is another revolution coming soon, this time one to liberalize. 50% of the 80 million are under 25 yrs old and they all LOVE western society and culture but of course, despise western govts. The hejab is driving the females crazy. SOmetimes you get a peek at what they were under the big black cloak, its mini-skirts and modern stuff. I always claim Msian nationality with locals for Asian camaraderie ie....yah, man...I hate imperialist America too !!!...type of stuff but with other travelers I say I am Canadian. Plus, being Malaysian helps bargain stuff since I am a fellow poor Asian. Iranian girls are real pretty, dark features, all slim and good complexion but I wouldn't go near any of them for risk of FATWA. They keep a good distance from me too but stare, giggle and discuss the "alien specimen" amongst themselves. They can't even interact with local men....so interacting with a foreign man is even more prohibited !!! |
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| Subject: Tales from Iran 2 | Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 |
Probably the biggest social problem I see in Iran is boredom, especially amongst the young people. Almost all the pastimes people do in other countries are non-existent in Iran. There are no cafes, bars, clubs, discos, theatres. Live music is not permitted, pool (which used to be HUGE, was banned after the revolution), obviously no gambling and football (males only) is the only sport which has slipped through the cracks. There are a few TV channels but 90% of programming is religeous matter....not exactly gripping stuff. Ok, so you are thinking, I've only named things western cultures do. Problem is, Iranians haven't filled-in the void with any of their own things either ! As a result, every evening the streets, parks and public spaces are just packed with people just hanging-out and walking very very slowly. One guy said to me, "If I walk home too fast then I'll have even more time doing nothing at home". Their political structure is unusual too. In 1997 they overwhelmingly voted into power a moderate reformist President. Only problem is that the religeous council above him (obviously not elected) can overturn any of his rulings and can sack him too (when he was Minister of Culture in 1992 he was sacked for allowing a concert performed by an Iranian female to a female only audience !!!). So this poor President is trying to exercise his election mandate yet can and will be sacked if he "pushes it". Iran, fun to visit but not a good place to live. Food situation here still bad. Had 5 ice-creams today which is the only good thing Iran has going, food-wise. |
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| Subject: Tales from Iran 3 | Date: Sun, 23 Apr 2000 |
Now in Tehran, a madhouse of 12 million. I am happy to be here since at least there is some action. Some of the other cultural cities had lots of sites but were just really dead. Mother, internet is really scarce from now on so do not be surprised if this is the last message until Turkey (mid-May). B-day was yesterday (my 2nd on-the-road b-day!!!), gave myself a haircut, it was 90 cents. I felt so bad that I tipped him 10 cents. You should have seen the look on his face, he could have kissed me. Tipping in Iran is rare I suppose. No wonder they love foreigners. Traffic here is in a league of its own. I have never before seen basic traffic and driving rules so blatantly ignored and disregarded. Apparently, driving full-speed down the wrong way of a one-way road is perfectly OK here. Also, cars routinely use the lanes of oncoming traffic whenever their lane gets full. I'm usually a really heads-up person on the streets but have almost gotten run-over a few times already, usually by motorbikes on the sidewalks and by cars driving on the wrong side of the road !! |
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| Subject: Iran | Date: Thu, 18 May 2000 |
On the surface Iran looked normal enough (except for the fact that all females looked like ninja's) but turned out to be the strangest and weirdest country. There weren't that many sites around and the landscape, although pretty, was nothing spectacular. Iranians absolutely love foreigners and give us royal treatment. Let's say there was a line-up to order a burger, they would serve me first regardless of how many people there were in front of me. The others who were waiting wouldn't say anything either. Indians on the other hand would pick the foreigner to try to butt in front of! On a couple of occasions store-owners would not let me pay for stuff I bought since they are so pleased I came into their store. Iran's political situation is very sad. The ruling regime are fundamentalist religeous clerics and are completetly out of touch with the people and rule with an iron grip. Asked anyone about the 1979 revolution and they will say, 'we have gone from one bad regime to a much worse one'. The previous regime of the Shah was corrupt and dictatorial but everyone could live a normal life. This regime has laid out rules on how they want Iranians to act, think and live. Boy and girl caught holding hands, you have to marry. Dancing in public, 6 months in jail. I have a hundred more examples but you get the idea. No activities, no entertainment, only Islam and prayer. As Iranians say, 'fun is not allowed in Iran'. One of the first things I noticed upon arrival is that there weren't many happy faces around. Everything which me or you would consider fun, all the things we look forward to, anything with is fun, Iranians are deprived of. I once mentioned to an Iranian that I noticed that a lot of people just mulling about in the streets or sitting around in the parks and she replied, 'yes....we just sit and we dream'. Its a good thing that they only issue 1 month tourist VISAs since if I stayed and any longer I might go into depression. Its sad and almost heart-wrenching seeing a whole nation suffer like this. For a traveller Iran is ridiculously cheap. India is generally considered to be the low-cost leader in backpack travel but Iran was almost twice as cheap as India. Now in the Black Sea port of Trabzon, tucked in the remote north-east corner of Turkey close to the Russian border. Being so close to the former Soviet states Trabzon is a real cross-roads town with lots of weird stuff in its bazaars and tons of Russian prostitutes called Natasha's. They seem over-priced though at US$100 !!! Tourists don't really come here but I am glad I dId since its one of the most beautiful places I have ever seen. I am probably the only foreIgner In town so still enjoy the celebrity status I had in Iran. An on-duty police car gave me a ride this morning and later on I got a ride with a military jeep, both are firsts in my hitch-hiking career. Accomodation is cheap too. I am staying at a Catholic Church which lets passerbys use their spare rooms. Still not quite sure what a Catholic church is doing in muslim Turkey and why they give free lodging to people like me ? Apparently you are supposed to leave a donation at the end of your stay. Turkey is a country of many faces. Some places look like modern Europe and others look like India. They claim to be a muslim country but don't act like one. For example, at prayer times the mosque loudspeakers would blare out all that 'Allah' stuff but everyone ignores it and I don't see anyone going into the mosque except old men. Some conservative women attempt to observe the muslim Hejab laws (requires women to cover all skin and not show any bodily form). They will put on the head-scarf but will wear a sexy tight outfit to go with it ! 14 months on the road and still loving it, Lee Chai |
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| Subject: Turkey | Date: Sun, 11 Jun 2000 |
Today is day 38 in Turkey, my final day in this fantastic country before I head to the Greek Island of Rhodes. Although I still rate the Karakorams, Cook Islands and Nepal ahead, Turkey has been the most fun country of all. Its a perfect combination of great sites, lots of variety (cities, mountains, beaches etc), a somewhat exotic feel, tons of partying and a great social atmosphere. Outside of the mainstream package holiday infested places, the Turks are friendly and warm-hearted bunch and all this at a fraction of Europe's cost (even cheaper than Thailand or Malaysia). Turkey is probably the only destination I cannot find a single fault with. Its the place I would recommend the most for those of you wondering where to visit next. My highlights were : - Trabzon on the Black Sea coast. - Cappadocia. This place was so weirdly beautiful, only a photo could describe it. - 4 day/3 night Yacht Cruise just completed yesterday. I now know why they call it The Turqoise Coast. |
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